2012 - Spain, Portugal and Madiera
Death in the Afternoon
When Hemingway romanticised the bull fights and bull fighters of Spain
many years ago they were, I am sure, not as scripted as the fight I saw
in the small Plaza de Toros of Torrimalimos. I had read
Hemingway's account many years ago and thought I understood the ritual
but as the afternoon wore on I realised that today the authorities have
ensured that the script is followed.
The arena in Torrimamilinos is quite small, it was only half full and
the event has held on a Thursday afternoon. We had taken a bus to
the town and walked up the hill to the venue arriving early to purchase
our tickets “Sombra” in the shade. We joined a good crowed at a
local pub to have a few beers before the event.
After a parade of carrages around the ring and the traditional sounding
of the trumpet fan fare the bull enters. He runs out of the dark
tunnel into the bright light of the arean and is attracted to a scarlet
cape in the far corner held by a toreador, he charges over only to see
the cape disappear behind a sturdy wooden barrier, then an other cape
appears opposite and he charges towards that, but that too disappears,
then a third when at last the matador with the same colour cape appears
and does some rather nice passes with the bull who at this time is
fresh with no wounds. The crowd love this section and ole and
call out. This is what I came to see.
But the script prescribes that the cape again appears from behind a
barrier and the bull's attention is held as two well padded and
blindfolded horses plod into the arena. One stand in front of the
judges box and a man on foot attracted the bull's attention. The
matador flashes a cape and the bull again charges then he sees the
horse but he is only a few meters away so he charges the horse and
tries to lift it off its feet but during this session the picador stabs
him in the top of his neck with a long lance and inflects a massive
wound in the top of his neck. The dark red blood flows down his
side read for a skilled matador to brush against.
Now the real brave blokes come into the arena with two long barbed
sticks. The stand with arms raised and call the bull, he rushes
towards them but they scamper off to one side and as the bull passes
stick the ??? into his neck. Brave men. They disappear
behind the screen as the bulls attention is taken by the capes.
Now is the time of the matador who is supposed to spend time
judging the bull and his charge, and if he charges straight or
tosses left or right. The matador has now changed to a heavy red
cape which is held out with a sword. The bull charges at
the red movement with is head low but to no avail, it is always in
front of him. Charge and turn. Charge and turn. No Matador
or movement in front of him. At times he stops just to get his
breath. The top of his neck is just a mass of blood as the
initial jab bleeds and the ??? swing from side to side. I
understand that they are used to lower the bulls head so that the
matador can get a clear sword strike behind the shoulder right into the
heart.
The next ritual is for the matador with the sword drawn get the bull to
charge closer and closer to his body and to turn at the end but not to
fall. The closer and the better the turn and the crowed roar
their approval. Finally when the bull is exhausted and his head
has dropped the matador stand ready with a new sword outstretched
towards the bull, cape lowered and the bull charges with head
down. A good matador will insert the sword with one swift
movement right up to the hilt and the bull will turn, look at the
matador and fall over dead. That occurred once of the six bulls
that entered the ring. On more than one occasion the sword hit
bone and sprang away. On another the matador missed and the bull
got his cape while a particularly brave bull was given a reprieve by
the judge, first a orange then a green handkerchief over the front of
the judges box and the matador backs off and the bull runs out of the
arena.
As soon as the bull falls over the assistances run in and cleanly kill
the bull with a sharp knife to a spot behind the head. The two
mules then come in and the butcher drags the bull out of the ring to be
slaughtered.
The ritual occurred six times during our afternoon, scripted almost to
the minute. The matador had very little to work with and in my
opinion the bulls moved quite slowly with little initiative. I
must say the bull that got the reprieve did charge more than the others
and did not look down but held his head up high. It was never an
even contest but the script ensures that it does not get out of
hand. The crowed in the arena was quite thin and I would say not
very well educated so we did not get the response that I would have
expected.
I doubt that I would go again but bull fighting is so much part of the Spanish national tradition I could not miss the event.
Have a look at my
photos here
Malua is at 36:10.940N 05:55.43W at Barbate on 13/9/2012
The anchor dropped with a relieving splash as the sun set after a
harrowing day fighting our way out of the Mediterranean into the
Atlantic. We stopped just outside the fishing harbour off a long beach.
Luckily the swell and wind had abated for both Pete and I needed the
rest after the stress of the Gibraltar Straits.
The next morning we upped the hook and started the passage to Cadiz
taking a wide berth from Cape Trafalgar. The famous site of Nelson last
battle. It looked very benign the morning we passed.
We also passed Cadiz and entered the marina at Rota on the opposite
side of the bay to stay a few days while traveling inland to Seville.
Christopher Columbus set off from Spain from near the spot that we are
currently anchored or so the cruising guide states. We left Rota after
a few days land travel and set sail so to speak because we have had
very little wind and the iron genny has been working overtime. We
weaved our way through the numerous net buoys that are all over the
shallower waters of this coast. It was a long uneventful day as we
approached the entrance of the River Rio de Huelva. It is a well marked
channel and very deep as we found out as we motored up river past large
gaz and fuel processing plants and docks. We passed a number of large
and powerful tugs who where busy escorting and large oil carrier was
bound for sea.
We went quite a long way up the river where it divided and dropped the
anchor in five meters of water. The current had just turned and the
wind dropped so we settled down to a quiet night. In the morning the
wind had come up and the current turned so we were drifting towards the
bank. I had visions of the Canals of France with just mud under the
keel however the wind dropped and the current took over and soon we
where lying parallel to the bank with just over one meter below the
keel.
The day was declared a lay day and we stayed anchored for the day to do
the odd jobs that we had put on hold over the past week. The major one
was to establish if the 8HP yamaha had in fact given up the ghost.
After about three hours and numerous attempts to get it to start plus
removing and cleaning the carburettor about four time it started and
then continued to run. what a relief as I left the mother ship and
headed up wind with the throttle half open. The motor continued to run
and it was declared safe to use in open water. The tiny 2.8 HP put away
for another day. We are due to anchor up some river over the next few
days so the larger outboard will come in handy as we have to travel the
longer distance to get into the marinas.
Malua is at 37:12.70N 07:24.40 at Ayamonte Marina on 19/09/2012
We left the quiet river banks of the river near Huelva watched by the
statue of Christopher Columbus and motored with the outflowing tide
past the large gas refinery and the number of large gas carrying
vessels loading the local produce. As we reached the sea we turned
westwards and set a course or the next major river mouth with a
suitably deep entrance. We had timed our arrival two hours before the
high water to take advantage of the depth and inflowing tide. The
cruising guide warned to keep close to the port bank as we entered the
river, which we did but found that the depth with the three meter tide
was in our favour. The entrance is not that wide but at least 5 meters
deep. On the port side is Portugal while on the starboard is Spain. We
chose a marine on the Spanish side and with a fast flowing current
aimed the bow down river of the entrance. The current slowed once we
where inside the entrance but the depth was reduced to about 1 meter
under the keel. This will limit our movement out with the 3 meter tidal
range. We will have to wait for the approach of high water before we
can leave.
We checked in at the Ayamonte Marine next to a Norwegian yacht we have
encountered along the coast. The local supermarket supplied the vitals
for the evenings meal.
Malua is at 37:27.97N 07:28.09W on Alcontina on 22/9/2012
We have Spain on the East and Portugal on the West as we motored up the
river between the two countries. It was very much like the rivers of
France so I was always watching the depth gauge as we proceeded up
river. To my surprise there are about 40 yachts anchored in the river
and quite a community as we found out passing a large wooden trading
yacht. There was a party in progress piano, drums, and numerous
guitars. We anchored collected a few things for a BBQ. By nightfall the
beat was intense and the decks where full of sailors - some of them had
sailed all over the world. A very interesting evening.
Pete and I jumped into the rib to head home and the big motor would
again not start. Luckily the strong current and tide was flowing down
stream on route for Malua.
Malua is at 36:59.99N 07:50.31W at Olhao on the Rio Formosa on
24/09/2012
We anchored in the fairway of Ayamonte so we could get a good start
with the outgoing tide for the short hop of 25 nm west along the coast
to the next river mouth and anchorage. The sea was very confused
as we left the shelter of the break-wall. The wind was more south
than west but the cloud cover was dark with a clear depression south
west of us well out to sea. As we sailed westward the horizon
darkened and the rain came towards us. As is the case the wind
was on the nose and in the 12 to 18 kn range. I had taken in one
reef in the main and had the stay sail out but the chop slowed our
progress to almost nil. After unfurling the genoa Malua started
to pull ahead and we tacked our way along the coast. The rain
came - the first I have seen since the UK in July and the boat got a
good wash only to have the salt spray all over the decks as we crashed
our way into the short chop. As we moved westwards the swell
increased as did the period. We were in no rush because we had to
wait for the tide to turn and come in between the break-walls on a half
rising tide. The wind picked up as we approached as did the well
and we made a cautious entrance in 22 knots of cross wind but a deep
entrance.
The Rio Formosa is a huge delta with sand dunes along the coast. A
shallow channel leads towards the town almost 2 miles from the
coast. At low tide it dries so we along with a number of other
yachts dropped our anchor next to a isolated fishing village perched on
the sand strip between the ocean and the delta lagoon. It has a
small fishing harbour.
The wind was still blowing as the sun set and we turned in for an early
night.
Malua is at 37:07.74N 08:31.59 at Portimao on 26/09/2012
We left the Straits of Gibraltar with little wind but it increased from
the west, since that day we have had wind with a westerly component in
them which in sailing terms if you are going westwards is on the nose.
Now gentlemen only sail down wind but there again men of leisure have
lots of time on their hands. We on Malua want to cover the ground and
get to new destinations so waiting for the wind to come from behind is
not really an option. We either beat into the wind like yesterday when
we covered 60 nm to travel only 35 nm along the coast or motor which is
not what we do.
We are almost at the corner of southern Portugal where the coast turns
north towards Lisbon. The forecast for the next week is northerly winds
with a few days above 15 knots so again we would have to beat into the
wind to make Lisbon.
So if the wind wont come to Malua, we change destinations. We are off
to Madeira. It is about a three day sail south and with the winds from
the north we will have them behind us in true gentlemanly style. The
cruising guide speaks highly of the island so we hope to have a few
days on the island before heading east to Rabat in Morocco. Now which
way will the winds blow for that passage? It doesn’t look good but we
can only hope. We may even have to change destinations again and work
our way up the coast in short hops.
Malua is at 34:29.97N 13:35.13W at sea on 1/10/12
Yesterday after the strong winds of the previous night was great
sailing. The wind was aft of the beam and we were romping along
with one reef, stay sail and Genoa out. There was a bit of a
cross sea so all was not smooth down below. Pete and I both
caught up on some sleep. I ran the generator for two hours to
charge the battery because the autopilot and fridge was draining is at
about 10 amps. That done we settled down to a easy passage
through the night with a big full moon.
Suddenly a call on the radio. Please look out for the two yachts
on a collision course with you. The AIS had just picked up on at
about five miles on the starboard side and well clear. I could
not see the other on the AIS or radar so I called him on the
radio. Do you have AIS and how far are you ahead of your
mate. The answer was no AIS and at least 5 nm. It was
nothing to worry about so I turned in asking Pete to call me when we
were closer to the leading yacht. About a half hour later I was
on deck with the stern light of the yacht off the starboard bow but we
were closing fast. I adjusted the helm and we slid past his stern
and we were off on our course to Madeira. They more than likely
to the Canaries. That is at least 6 yachts we have seen on that
route – why not stop at Madeira?
This morning I could not start the generator so turned on the major
Yanmar engine. It did not sound right. I looked over the
side and no water was coming out the outlet. Stop the
engine. I knew I should have changed the impeller while in a
marina. Out with the tools, take the cover off and there appeared
to be nothing wrong except I could not get the impeller out.
Apply some Australian lanolin. Turn the engine over and the
impeller slid out easily. I replaced it from my store and put
everything back again but still no water. I filled the filter and
the inlet hose, started the engine and the full flow of water gushed
over the side. One of life's little mysteries that make a simple
day at the office at sea quite challenging
Malua is at 33:16.79N 15:17.83W at 0600 on 2/10/2012 at sea
Land appeared at 9:50 out of the blue sea off the starboard bow just as
the chart plotter said it would.
We have had a very down wind sailing 24 hours with the wind at 12 to 16
from aft. The main is out with a preventer and the genoa slightly
rolled out to starboard with the spinnaker pole. The motion was
easy and we settled into a leisurely lifestyle after the engine
incident. I find reading my tablet lying in bed a bit heavy so I
will have to devise a means of suspending it.
Sundown saw us dip into the freezer for a beef stew I had prepared at
Portimao along with some fresh cauliflower and broccoli. There
will be no scurvy in this vessel.
We will go into the marina for a day or two, recharge the batteries and
look around then move to the main island.
Noon 2 noon run 144 nm last 12 hours 84 nm
Madiera
Have a look at some
photos here
Malua is at 33:03.73N 16:18.94W at 1500 on 2/10/2012 at Porto Santo
Our crossing from Portugal to Madeira ended when after three full days
we arrived at the small harbour of Porto Santo. We have travelled
450 nm at an average speed of just more than 6 knots. That is not
bad with our best noon to noon run of 151 nm. The first night the
sea was confused, lumpy and the wind was up at 25 knots with a bitter
chill. I had full wet weather gear. Malua as usual handled
the conditions very well and we as crew have started to work as a team
although Pete still has a lot to learn and remember. Malua is not
a simple boat and because of its size things have to be done
right. Nothing broke but a few places on the woodwork will have
to have some work.
We are here for a few days the will sail south to the main island to
have a look around before pointing the bow towards Morocco – where we
actually land will depend on the wind.
Malua is at 32:44.1N 16:44.0W at Conical Marina on 5/10/2012
We had an easy sail south from Santos to the main island of Madeira and
checked in to the smaller marina here at Conical. It is a huge
development with a marina at the base of the hill surrounded by very
upmarket apartment blocks. I took a bus into town which turned out to
be quite small and clustered around a fishing harbour and up a steep
valley. - Not a place for bicycles. I had to walk home because I could
not wait for the bus. Today we set off on one of the many tramping
paths on the island.
Malua is at 33:22.67N 14:30.51W at 0600 on 9/10/2012 at sea
On Sunday we set off on the local bus for Machica which is down the
coast from Quinta de Lorde Marine to find a levada – water canal.
I had first come across them in Portuguese Timor in the ‘70 when we
were leaving Australia. (The water still does not run up hill
even today – note to friend). We boarded a local bus which took
us up into the hills behind the town. The driver dropped us off
at a point that the road crossed the levada. These are water
canals which start high up in the valleys and channel the water along
the contour towards the sea. Because they follow the contour they
go into the smaller gullies and valleys, usually above the house line
and below the tree line. The trees generally give you shade as
you walk along the path next to the canal which is only half a meter
wide and about a meter deep. While we where walking the levada
was only half full. Where is meets a river they have built a
bridge for the rive which now flows over the canal with only a small
inlet to add water to the canal. There are openings closed with a
stainless steel gate that can be raised to allow the water to escape
the canal and flow down onto the fields below. At many points the
land owners had placed garden hose in the canal and syphoned water out
of it to water their vegetable patch.
Our walk was 15 kn along the levada all at about the same level.
We stopped at a convenient bar for a refreshing drink just ahead of a
20 strong party of German trampers along with all the correct gear
including walking sticks. We left them behind drinking their
coffee and discussing the merits of the walk.
Monday saw us get Malua ready for sea. This time the boxes under
the sink had been repacked so nothing rattled and all things put in its
correct place – no cupboards flying open and boxes on the floor!
We headed out for the 510 nm trip to Rabat with a weather forecast of
little wind and not in the right direction.
As night fell the wind had not come up and the sun set to a glassy
night. One could not distinguish the sea from the sky. Pete
at the change of watch pointed out a ship in the distance. I
watched as it rose into the sky – the planet Neptune in the NE.
At my change of watch the quarter moon rose and we could at last make
out a horizon. The Yanmar continued its beat right through the
night. At daybreak we had made 112 nm in 18 hours. Still
almost three days to go.
Malua is at 33:57.47N 12:05.07W at 0600 on 10/10/12 at sea
The forecast estimated that there would be a low pressure ridge 200 nm
off the Moroccan coast and the wind would blow into this ridge but
generally from the north. Well the wind gods did not listen to
the American forecasters and decided on this occasion not to send
wind. We have sail for about 4 hour of the total passage we have
made of 350 nm so far. At the moment we are 245 nm from Rabat and
the wind has not filled in. I did a check of the available diesel
and we will have sufficient to motor all the way. We last filled
in Gibraltar. Lesson learnt always keep 20 litres in a can just
in case. Luckily Moroccan fuel prices are very low. I hear
as low as 30c/l so we will be able to fill to the brim when we get
there.
The AIS has been quiet with only the occasional ship or mega yacht
passing. I expect the number to increase as we near the land
because the traffic down the coast must increase as the head for
Gibraltar from the south as well as increase in the number of fishing
boats as we approach the coast.
Our estimated ETA is in two day Friday just after day break. We
will have to stand off until the tide reaches high at noon before we
will be escorted over the river mouth bar into the new marina at
Bouregreg, Rabat.
Malua is at 33:57.47N 12:05.07W at 0600 on 10/10/2012 at sea off
Morocco
Last night as well as the previous night I could see the stars
reflected in the still sea all around Malua as we motored through the
flat calm of the night. The deck log states under conditions:
glassy – no wind – no swell. It was a beautiful night as I came
on watch at 02:00. This is the third day in a row that we have
had less than 4 knots of wind as the sun set. The AIS can pick up
a vessel more than 200 nm away under these conditions. Thankfully
it has filters so we only get those ships displayed that are within a
12 mile radius. Two passed in the night.
We had run out of bread so I set about turning the French flour into
bread. My first attempt a few weeks ago resulted in a rather
tasteless white loaf but this time the newer darker flour produced a
nice round loaf which was eaten with relish along with the kidney
beans, onion, red pepper, tomatoes and fetta. A great meal to
keep us occupied for the rest of the day. A slow day as the
engine droned on, three days non stop. There are only 90 nm to go
– about 13 hours at this pace. We will have to slow down to reach
the river mouth at sun rise on Friday.
Pete and I have slipped into a good routine in these conditions.
I can fall asleep almost instantly my head hits the pillow knowing that
little will change in the next three hours. Entering Moroccan
continental shelf will add some challenges as the ships traffic will
increase along with fishing boats and the associated fishing
nets. The moon only rises at 3:00 so the night will be dark, a
watchful eyes will be needed.
Malua is at 34:02.55N 06:50.76W off Rabat at 0800 12/10/2012
After almost four days of flat seas - and I mean flat like a mill pond
Malua arrived off the Regreg river mouth and Rabat. We had covered the
510 nm almost all the way using the engine and slowed to arrive at
sunrise. Unfortunately the tide only reached high at noon so we had to
wait off the bar for three hour to get sufficient water to cross. The
marina when contacted on ch 10 sent a boat out to lead us in. On a 3.1m
tide we only recorded 2.9 under our 2m keel right at the entrance of
the second set of break-walls. We proceeded up the river and tied to
the customs dock. Two French and English speaking official in smart
suits and leather sole shoes came aboard and got us to fill out the
many forms required. The drug squad arrived with the sniffer dog who
did a cursory smell of the deck and down below. After that we were free
to go. I visited the office and again filled out forms and was given a
wifi password - an essential element of informed cruising.
Today start the land travel.
Follow Malua.